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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.